1) FL-SUN V400

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• Typical DELTA dimensions are great for tall fuselage and wing sections. 

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• Possibly the greatest benefit of a Delta is the absence of bed leveling. In most cases, use the calibration sequence one time and you're good to go for the project. This means that your parts will print with perfect precision in relation to joints on other printed parts! This cannot be understated when printing big jets.

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• Solid Base and non-moving bed reduces vibrations on tall prints at higher layers which improves print quality drastically.​

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• Light weight print head allows for higher speeds while maintaining print quality. (4500mm/min)

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• Another benefit of higher speed is faster travel, which really helps keep oozing to a minimum when retraction is turned off. The result is much cleaner parts and fewer fails. 

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2) ENDER 3 STYLE PRINTERS

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• Simple, dependable, easy to troubleshoot, and cheap- in exchange for slightly lower print quality and wait time. Being that they are so cheap these days, the opportunity exists to get your parts printed in record time by using multiple machines at once. It's a lot of babysitting, but if one breaks down, you aren't out of the game.
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3) Bambu Lab P1S​

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• Great for PLA PLUS hardware, landing gear and medium to small LW-PLA-HT parts.  Core x y tend to get heat creep when using LW-PLA so the HT helps with this.  Engines, Pylons, stabs, and control surfaces are no problem and come out great. 

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4) General Print recommendations

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• Enclosures are great for the LW-PLA parts of the 74X Airframe.

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• PEI beds work well. Use glue stick every few prints and make sure bed is clean from debris. Applying IPA on a shop rag and leveling out the residue after around 5 prints or so has worked well for us. Wait for the bed to cool before applying IPA. 

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• If you're using a glass bed, this is great for smooth bottom surfaces and first layers. Glue stick will need to be used almost every time.  Keep from touching the bed, or wash your hands prior to touching the bed to help it even further. 

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• If your 74X parts are failing, it's extremely important to dial in your nozzle's Z height from the bed. If first layers are coming unraveled, move the nozzle closer by .05mm and repeat until you get a good first layer adhesion. 

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• PLEASE ENSURE YOUR BED IS LEVEL relative to your X axis before printing your 74X, and continually check it through out the build. If you fail to do this, you will get fuselage joints that do not match, and you'll be left with a crooked airplane, big ugly gaps and wasted filament. This mostly applies to bed slingers. (ender 3 and the like) ​​​

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•  It is important to take tolerances into account when using more than one printer.  We noticed that parts can have alignment issues or uneven seams if multiple machines are being used.  Best practice is to configure the machines EXACTLY the same (enclosures mods, etc), calibrate and compare to the best of your ability, and then assign each printer a section of aircraft.     Example: 

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       ​Printer 1 - FUSELAGE

  Printer 2 - WINGS

     Printer 3 - ENGINES

Printer 4- STABS

          Printer 5- HARDWARE

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